#Gates50States

Montana, specifically Glacier National Park (GNP), was the next stop on our quest to explore ID, WY and MT the summer of 2016. Leaving Yellowstone was difficult…emotionally – it was an amazingly unique experience that was hard to let go and physically – a momma black bear with two rambunctious cubs caused a good bear jam on our way out of the park:)

If you’re making the drive from Yellowstone to Glacier leave very early for fewer crowds and excellent wildlife viewing, then settle in for a long and not particularly stimulating drive. What should have been an 8 hr drive morphed into 11 hrs by the time we stopped for bears, a ridiculously slow breakfast service in Gardiner, MT and grocery shopping at the Walmart in Helena. Small (read -minimal selection and very expensive) grocery stores are available a bit closer to the east side of GNP but if you really need to stock up then plan on hitting the Walmart in Helena with a few coolers or the one in Kalispell on the west side of the park.

The Great 11 Hour Journey culminated just 3 miles from the Canadian border in the tiny town of Babb at Paul Ranch. A fabulous place to stay down a winding dirt road through a cattle ranch, this was the perfect place for our family to spread out. We stayed in the Meadowlark Meadows 3 bd 2 ba modular home. It was a bit out-dated but everything was in working order and comfortable for our several night stay. Plenty of room for the kids to run around and the alpaca pasture was just down the gravel driveway. Although they won’t let you get too close, the kids really enjoyed seeing them. Perhaps the best part of this gem was the location – just 15 minutes from the East Glacier entrance and 20 minutes to Many Glacier. We looked at staying within the park at the Many Glacier Hotel or Swiftcurrent Motor Inn but Paul Ranch was a much more affordable alternative for families with the added benefits of a full kitchen, outdoor grill and laundry capabilities. As with most National Park accommodations, expect mostly rustic but pretty costly. Sometimes it’s worth it for the location, but for GNP there are some good alternatives close by.

Hiking options in Glacier are varied and numerous. By the last few days in June the trails at lower elevations were free of snow and easy to manage even for the kids, ages 8, 5 1/2 and 5 1/2.  Red Rock Falls was our first foray into the park. An excellent out and back family trail, we were afforded glorious mountain views, multiple waterfalls in the Red Rock Falls cascade and plenty of stops for the kids to rest on our 4.5-5 mile trek. The streams and lakes were ice cold but the kids didn’t care as they waded in just above the ankle to scope out the many different colored rocks.

Offering a bit more of a technical and cardio challenge is the hike to Grinnell Glacier. Our kids would not have made it, so my parents did the trail in the morning while we explored Red Rock Falls, then Ryan and I hit the Grinnell trail around 1:00pm. Although it’s technically a heavily trafficked trail, we had many portions all to ourselves. Unfortunately for us, at the end of June there was still substantial snow coverage of the trail past mile 3.5 or so. It was just too steep and icy to pass the falls and continue on to the glacier. Maybe next time!

Even if the glacier cannot be reached, the trail is still totally worth it. The wildflowers, likely not even in full bloom yet, were incredible and the views just couldn’t be beat. Beware of bears and make some noise though. This trail is so narrow in places with steep slopes on both sides there’s not much to do but slowly back away if you meet a grizzly. My parents had to wait a bit before continuing as a grizzly was blocking the trail 100 yards in front of them. Between Yellowstone and Glacier, bear spray and constant vigilance is a must.

All too soon we had to move on to the western side of the park. All of Glacier is fantastic but if only 1-2 days are available, I’d recommend spending it in Many Glacier and the east side if you’re a day-hiker.

If we had to leave such a glorious place, however, what better way to do that the Going-to-the-Sun road traversing the park from St. Mary in the east to the West Glacier entrance. Thankfully, the road opened shortly before our arrival, so we were able to experience one of the most scenic drives in America. If the Logan’s Pass Visitors Center is on your list, then start out early. The parking lot seemed to be full all day starting around 9am.

We chose to stretch our legs early by hiking  St. Mary’s Falls & Virginia Falls. A recent forest fire revealed a very different hiking experience through the initial sections of the trail providing a great teaching moment for the kids. After we cleared the burned sections it didn’t seem long until we reached the first of the the falls, St. Mary’s.

Like everything we had experienced so far in Glacier, it was incredible. The amazing color of the water and the sheer power evident have to be experienced to be believed. Continue on to impressive Virginia Falls with a bit of a climb for approximately 4 miles round trip.

As the road progresses from one gorgeous view to another there are multiple opportunities to pull over and stretch or even head out on a few more hikes. We took the entire day to go from the east side to our next accommodations in Apgar Village. It was certainly crowded but allotting an entire day meant we could get out whenever we saw something interesting. If there wasn’t parking, we’d just go on to the next available spot. The Going-to-the-Sun road offered about the best side-of-the-road picnic opportunities for which one could wish.

Upon reaching the lower sections on the west side of the park, it was like a completely different place. Lake McDonald Lodge is definitely worth a stop even if you’re not staying there. The ambiance is so rustic, homey and inviting. There’s even a reading room that overlooks the lake. Definitely an option for couples or those not interested in having access to a kitchen. Our family, however, enjoys making our own meals on vacation, so we chose Apgar Village for their cute cabin selection and perfect location at the southern end of Lake McDonald. The cabins aren’t much to look at and are quite rustic, but it gave us a place to sleep and the ability to cook, so it worked. The little village has ice cream, coffee and souvenir shops, plus places to rent paddle boards, kayaks, and canoes. For one stop shopping check out Eddie’s. We seriously could have lived there for the summer! The small town of West Glacier, just outside the park,  is only minutes away providing other lodging options with higher end amenities, restaurants and gas stations.

Time was spent over the next two days swimming (for those who don’t mind frigid waters:) kayaking, paddle boarding, horse back riding and hiking. Although we normally try to avoid heavily trafficked trails, we did all hit the Trail of the Cedars. Yes, it was crowded but definitely worth it to experience a completely different ecosystem within the park and the bridge over rushing Avalanche Creek made this short trail pretty impressive. Bugs definitely have more of a presence though, so be prepared.

The guys and kids hiked the Howe Lake trail (not one of the favorites) while the ladies spent a few hours horse back riding. Personally, I would rather hike the narrow, steep trails than ride up them, but if riding is a priority, then Swan Mountain Outfitters is a good choice. They offer a variety of options, even overnight trips, from West Glacier.

We were incredibly sad to leave such a magical place! Make sure to take the scenic drive through the Flathead Valley and on to Missoula to experience more of what Montana has to offer. Don’t miss the next Montana post to find out why Missoula was one of the most surprising places of our adventure.